20. Dezember 2011

Swapping again

This years SWAP rules is about creating TNTs and therefore perfecting fit. Great idea!

Here's my storyboard for this year:

All patterns but the cardigan will be self drafted. There will only be two dresses instead of the four shown, I wasn't decided on what it should be.

As always, we are allowed to include items sewn previously, that is before December27th. Though I am desperately in need of pants, I started off with a dress - I wanted something fun first!
After consulting with my husband, I decided on a sheath dress - a first for me, as I never had a fitted dress with a straight skirt part before. Sure enough I encountered fitting problems I had never before, but they were easily solved. Thank God I made a muslin!

So here's garment #1 for 2012 SWAP:

The fit is good, though there's still a little tweaking neccessary at the front: the curved princess seam line is located very much at the side of the skirt part. That means the dart of the skirt part (within the seam line) points towards the hollow next to my tummy, where the extra of the dart is not needed. There's too much fabric there. So, even I like the design that way, because of fit I moved the princess seam more towards center front in the pattern. We'll see how that turns out in fabric once I sew a second version.
I feel really comfortable wearing the dress -though it also feels odd. The dress looks so "grown-up"! Which is okay for a soon-to-be 42 year old. Just unusual for me.

Drafting info:
For better comprehension I include a photo of the pattern parts:

I took up the shape of the side seam line to create the princess seam line, curving the seam towards CF/CB underneath my hipline. To create a smooth line it is important to keep the edge of the inner pattern piece (CF or CB) smooth - this is the line you are going to see. The outer pattern piece can be "crooked" according to the darts you insert. Even so, it shouldn't be too weirdly curved as this can cause trouble when sewing the two edges together. Eg. originally the front side would be pointed at the bust point. The pattern pieces would touch, but curve apart from each other immediatly beyond the bust point, with the bust dart pointing toward the shoulder and the waist dart pointing down. I rounded the front side pattern piece right at the BP, leaving a little 3mm gap between the pattern pieces. But these 3mm less ease won't show!
The gaps between the pattern pieces are the darts which I created for fit. To show off the bust, I take the fabric in right underneath the bust. In the back I increase the intake gradually, as there is no "bump" to fit. The darts should end lower in the back than in the front (just where they end for a skirt, for me that's about 9cm below waist in front and 13cm in the back), but I was forced to elongate the front dart to let the to seams curve into each other nicely (you don't want to have the side pattern piece too wavy). This way the two darts are appr. the same length (though the front looks longer in the picture - not so in reality).
Looking at the front pattern pieces, you can tell where I had the original princess seam in the skirt part - more towards the side with all the tape on it. I drew in a new one, cut it open and closed the old line. You need to check if the changed dart takes up as much fabric as the first, else you must redraw the side front seam.
Funnily I found I had to do a sway back alteration with this sheath dress - something I've never done before. But it seems as this dress is very fitted on top AND bottom, this brings out body/posture issues more prominently.


Julie Culshaw hat gesagt…

Nice to see you back blogging.
And your new dress looks very nice. But you cut your hair! whah!

Ulrike hat gesagt…

Dein Kleid sieht sehr schön aus. Ich habe eine Schwäche für die zeitlosen Teile... Und die kürzeren Haare stehen dir auch ausgezeichnet.
Ich freue mich, dass du wieder bloggst!
Liebe Grüße, Ulrike

kbenco hat gesagt…

Your dress looks terrific on you, very smart and elegant. What a good fit and a great start to SWAP.

Rose hat gesagt…

What a great dress--you look lovely in it. Thank you for sharing your experiences!

Rose in SV

Maria hat gesagt…

I have enjoyed seeing your story board of what you are going to sew.

I have to put mine together. I have most of the fabrics, and the patterns, but have to make the story board.

Thank you for sharing...


Carolyn (cmarie12) hat gesagt…

I really like your dress too! The princess seams are great for fit and I'm sure your next version will be spot-on!

Rose hat gesagt…

I'm curious--what pattern did you use for your sheath dress? did you draft it yourself? or is it a Burda pattern? You look great in it and I would like to make something similar for myself...

Rose in SV

Eva hat gesagt…

Rose - I drafted this pattern myself. I realise only now I forgot to say so.

Rose hat gesagt…

Ahh--thank you! Now I'm REALLY impressed with your sewing AND drafting skills. :) I'll continue my hunt for the sewing pattern for a sewing pattern to work with. I wish you the best for the New Year!

Rose in SV

Steph A hat gesagt…

I'm so glad to see you blogging again! And I have to say I really admire anyone who can draft their own patterns, it something I'd like to do in the future as well.
Your dress really does look very good, the fit is spot on. It's a great LBD, and so versatile.
About feeling "grown-up", I just turned 47 and I still feel like I'm not there yet!