I finally finished the Vogue 2925 jacket. It is made from black wool crepe from Timmel, a wonderful fabric.
The instructions were easy and clear, the sewing straightforward. I only made few changes: I shortend the bodice about 1cm above the bust point. This brought the bust point and the waist up to were they actually are on my body. This correction had to me made allthough I have a regular body length.
Shortening the bodice within the armscye, I had to correct the sleeve and lower lapel as well.
I also decided to add a button placket. For this I added another 1,5cm (5/8 inch) to the front. I did not extend the lapel or placket to this new front.
And finally, I adjusted the sizing of the peplum. As I differ two sizes between waist and hip, I had to increase the lower peplum to fit. I added a little at the side seams (going from size 12 to size 14) of both the front and back peplum pieces. I also added another cm at the back by cutting and spreading the back peplum.
But somehow I am not yet friends with this jacket. First of all, the waist has much less ease to it as does the bodice, especially underneath the sleeves. It looks like being designed for a swimmer! The back is very broad. Well, to be honest, this isn´t something a "normal" person would notice, and as soon as arms are down, you can´t really tell. But I know it´s there... Secondly, the jacket has a "neckline issue". Karen stated this before, and she´s right. I went through my closet and tried to find out what does and what doesn´t work with the jacket. Well, here´s what I came up with:
Regular collarstand shirts don´t go with the jacket. Polonecks don´t go with the jacket. The Jalie cross-over shirt doesn´t go with the jacket (left is the Jalie, right a poloneck).
What does work are tshirts with wider (and preferably not too high cut) round or V-necklines, shirts with turtleneck and blouses with a lapel (left is the Jalie mock turtleneck, right is Burda 8287).
So there will be "slight" changes to my Swap plan now! Don´t know what I will come up with yet...
7 Kommentare:
Eva, your jacket looks very smart. Thank you for your photographs with the different tops and the explanation of your button extension. I also found the jacket broad in the back, I took it in a lot at the centre back, shortened the bodice, and enlarged the peplum.
Karen
The jacket is lovely and from the photographs, fits very well. Wool crepe is so wonderful to sew. I am having similar issues selecting a jacket for my SWAP because of the collars of the tops I want to sew do not work well the neckline of the jacket.
Thanks for dcoumenting the pattern changes you did. That will help a lot if I ever get to my version of it.
You don't like that pattern, but it looks great on you! Very smart. I agree with Julie, it would look great with a lace cami underneath.
Eva, thank you so much for this detailed review. The jacket is lovely on you. I've been eyeing it and eyeing it in the pattern form. I like your changes re the button front. And I see what you mean about the neckline. I think it's lovely with the Burda blouse, if you're looking for a blouse alternative for work. And of course it works with the t's and turtlenecks.
Did you fuse the wool crepe first, or underline it with anything?
Thank you! I start liking it already... Marji, I fused the interfacing directly to the wool crepe and used no underlining. Underlining and fusing that I will try some other time.
Eva, I wonder if the back is cut looser so you can move your arms even though the waist stays firmly in position??
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