Projekt: Wardrobe pattern

Pattern: Vogue 2925, Top and Skirt

Fabric: Top: Jersey, Polyester, with shine (3€/m)
Skirt: Rayon Garbadine (12€/m, Lining 4€/m) (ca. 2,6m needed each)

Cost: Top ca. 3€, Skirt (incl. zipper, grosgrain ribbon) ca.44€

As I am going to use this wardrobe pattern for the Timmel Swap 2008, I thought should try it out. During the summer PRwardrobe contest, Irina used this pattern and I instantly liked it.
The shirt is very easy to sew and uses only very little fabric (0,7m), which is nice for leftovers. I have a 86cm (34inch) bust, so I used a size 12 (this is for 87cm). It turned out too big. The shirt was very loose fitting and the neckline much to big. I cut 1,3cm (1/2 inch) from the foldlines in front and back, so the whole bodice is less wide now and works much better. As a seam finish, you are supposed to make a narrow hem at the armholes and neckline. It did work, but I won´t repeat this finish. I ironed soluweb (a waterdissolvable stabilizer) at those seams and it was difficult to do the narrow hem, put the soluweb inbetween fabric layers and not get it to stick to the iron. Next time I will try serging clear elastic to the fabric (I just couldn´t find it,I really wanted to try out that technique - next time!) and just turn and topstich. Or just use a foldover elastic. Leaving the seamallowance on, as I think the neckline is still a bit big - sometimes the brastraps peep through.

The skirt was a bit more work, though it is still easy to sew. I lengthend the pattern 10cm (4 inch). The original length (75cm, 29.5 inch) hangs mid-calf - rather unfavourable. I cut the pattern apart at the "lengthen/shorten"-line and inserted the 10cm. Doing a muslin told me two things: I need more circumference (I cut a size 12, as I am a 12 waist. But I am a 16 hip. I thought the skirt might be more flared) and the straight part didn´t look good, it needed curves. So I added appr. 1cm at each panel side (excl. CF and CB).




This worked out nicely! The skirt is a little timeconsuming, as it has a VERY long hem (ca 5m). You bet I didn´t do a narrow hem with the lining! I did a rolled hem with my serger. And with all this hem, the skirt has a great twist!

Projekt: Faltenrock/ skirt with pleats

Pattern: self drafted skirt with four front pleats.

Fabric: black linnen, 5€/m. 1,3m.

Costs: €6,50 plus thread.

My goal was an A-line skirt with yoke and four front pleats, asymmetrical. One pleat along Center Front, two on the left of it, one on the right. The back should be simple.

I drafted a straight skirt, two centimeters below waist (3/4 inch). Two short darts in front, four longer darts in the back. The yoke is 8cm wide, the front darts are integrated there (fold out the darts, the yoke gets curvy). I then cut the front patternpiece apart for the pleats. The pleats are 6cm wide (2.5inch), and I added 8cm pieces (3inch) in between (to be folded). To get an A-line skirt I also added 2cm at the side.



At the back after cutting of the yoke, there are still darts left (as those are longer in the back). I cut into the darts to the tip and cut up the pattern from below also up to the point. I then spread both slits apart 2cm at the seam (those are the 2x2cm I added at the sidefront).



I pleated the fold into the front piece, sewed on the yoke, sewed the yoke to the back, closed the sides (Invisible zipper at the side). Then I finished the seam, sewed on the inner yoke and then topstitched the yoke and the pleats with white regular thread.

The top is Neue Mode 23489 Tunica.

Projekt: Knotenshirt

Pattern: Burda WoF 04-2005-113

Fabric: Polyester Stretch, 6€/m

Costs: ca. 4,50€

I guess about everyone has done this shirt in the past. I didn´t own this issue of the Burdamagazin, as it was published before I started sewing. But as sewers are so positive about this pattern, I aquired the issue via ebay.
To keep this short: The shirt is great! Especially for a smallbusted figure like me. The gathering adds visual size. BUT: it is rather a bit too fiddely for me. If ever I do it again, than longsleeved.

Projekt: Secretary blouse

Pattern: Burda WoF 09-2007-101

Fabric: Rayon jersey (59´´), 1,3m. I got the piece at the dutch fabric market for 3,50€

Cost: 3,50€ plus thread and fusible tape.

The rayon has a very soft hand and a wonderful drape. I wanted to try out this pattern and thought this 70´s style fabric would work well with the secretary style pattern- that is also 70´s to me. The shirt went together well and feels great.
I made the smallest size, 36. I raised the neckline 2,5cm/1 inch (which happens to be the neckline of the largest size). It is still VERY low! People larger than me (everyone that is, as I am rather small) can tell my bracolour. Burda wants you to finish the centerfront neckline first. If I did the shirt again, I wouldn´t cut the seamallowance until I get to the part of attaching the collar to it. It pulls otherwise. Not that anyone will ever see (the bowties are covering), but YOU will know it doesn´t look neat. The shirt originally is very baggy (and loose fitting), so I took out 2cm / 3/4inch of the sides at waistline (that´s 8cm in circumference), tapering to nothing at armhole and seam. It does look more fitted in Burdas pictures...

All in all I am having fun with this shirt, as it is much more stylish than my usual stuff. I like the fact that it is not fitted, this way it is more blouselike with the soft drape of a knit. But it is also very distinctive, so I don´t think I will do another one just like it. Maybe a twisted version?!

What to wear

I just received the seasonal newsletter from Palmer/Pletsch about the latest trends in fashion. Now, I am definitely not a trendy person, but having a look at what´s "in" never hurts...

Here´s a short resumée for my body (triangle) and color (winter) type:

Winter’s Colors:
Your best neutrals are black, ivory, and graphite gray. This season’s hottest hues of lipstick red, fuchsia, lemon, emerald, aqua, cobalt blue, purple and orchid add bold color to your wardrobe and are best worn with black accessories.

Your goal in dressing is to balance your body shape by adding width to your shoulders and
visually diminishing the size of your hips. You will appear slimmer if you accentuate your waistline with fitted or semi-fitted silhouettes.

Luxurious details dress up the most classic separates this season. Tucks, folds, twists, pleats, ruffles, rosettes and bows are handled by the most experienced seamstresses, as well as embellishments of graphic appliqués, metallic embroidery, sequins, beading, studs and fur trims.

Start with woolens and gabardines for your tailored pieces. Choose them in solids, tweeds, pinstripes, plaid and houndstooth. Knits are a favorite of the season, in double knits and soft jersey for dresses or heavier weaves and textures for pullover tunics, jackets and cardigan sweaters.

Suits: The new feminine suit is matched to a skirt or pant. Look for sophisticated tailoring, new lean looks or strong shoulders with a nipped-in waist reminiscent of the ‘40s.
Tops: The new look for fall is the soft secretary bow-tied blouse and soft full-sleeved blouses worn with everything from pencil skirts to jeans. Feminine empire-waist tops continue to be strong favorites.
Skirts: The pencil skirt is the skirt of the season followed by the pleated skirt worn at knee length or mid-thigh.
Pants: Look for skinny pants, jeans, classic trousers and wide-legged pants.

So what does this tell me? Well, my Swapplan works, more or less. Black (and gray, I am thinking of adding a grey woolpant) is my neutral. The accent colour of purple and orchid I have. I am planning on a jacket with widening lapel and an accentuated waistline. I match skirt and pant to that jacket. I will have a wide-legged pant.
What to think about? Maybe I will lookout for the other accentcolours, like emerald and cobalt blue. I will think about a pleated skirt. And I just finished a knittop that has this secretary look.